On-The-Grid This Week: Runway Review
Dior's Spring/Summer 2022
Dior’s Spring/Summer 2022 womenswear collection changed direction, all thanks to the pandemic which made Maria Grazia Chiuri approach fashion as a game and a performance of sorts, references to which were abundant in both the set and the collection. The scenography for the show was brought to you by Anna Paparatti who transformed the runway into an old-fashion game with the models as the pawn pieces, moving after another post each showcase.
Coming to the garments which fell equally in line with the performativity theme of fashion, they included a miscellany of very loud hues blended with minimalistic whites and blacks. Even though the cropped blazer and skirt co-ord broke away from Dior’s aesthetic, they seemed to dive somewhat into the tweed-mania of Chanel. The 1960s was definitely evident here with bob cuts and a lot of mesh imbued into upper garments. Even though the collection was largely refreshing and an enormous leap from Christian Dior’s aesthetic, Maria Grazia Chiuri is known for screaming yet understated prints which we did not see reigning here.
Marine Serre's Spring/Summer 2022, 'Ostal24'
If you watched the fashion film of the future wear brand, Marine Serre, and the first question that popped up in your head was “where do I sign up for this”- then our apologies, it’s not a cult teaser. The collection titled ‘Ostal24’ (meaning mansion) actually strips away from the narrative of extravagant sets and delves into the native values the brand wanted to soar high in the pieces.
The collection explores meaning and belongingness in the mundanities of life, pressing us to ruminate more on the quotidian things we do, all by ourselves. Since the idea is to explore ourselves, the pieces incorporated face coverings and face shields which could infer delving into one’s own world. Some garments had a futuristic touch-feel, building on the idea of the worlds situated in the past, present, or future, also explaining the 90s relic, popcorn fabric that made the cape of a colourful dress that rightfully stood out.
Melitta Baumeister’s Spring 2022 Ready-To-Wear
Melitta Baumeister’s Spring 2022 Ready-To-Wear collection toes the line of absurd and avant-garde flawlessly. We don’t blame you if you’re, let’s say, amused to witness the model hold a facemask or a kettlebell in place of arm candy or if the foam draping the model’s body might make you moonwalk a few steps back but the vision of the collection stands far tall in spite of these extremities.
The collection is the designer’s exploration of shape while the muse was an Instagram filter called the wacky mirror which distorted the body beautifully. With sheer naked dresses as well as full-coverage leotards, the body and the space around it are explored with solid hues of black, purple, lilac, white, and shades of green.
Balmain Spring/Summer Collection'22
Balmain presented their collection with the theme of freedom and personal elements. The collection showed heavy influence of gold elements along with black pieces, red oversized sleeved items and sensual backless fashion pieces for the models. Balmain went all-out evident with models donning heavy gold plated chains as tops, an ode to the bling we all love to wear.
Olivier Rousteing, the French designer had an accident where he suffered burns on his body. This experience led him to create draped minidresses and tops in a shiny white material that looked like a plaster cast and bandage dresses in what looked like gauze which um, had subjective opinions. It is less weird than it might sound, as it was the French designer's vision that was unique and personal which went being the highlight of this collection.
Men walked down wearing gold chain strappy pieces with baggy leather bottoms with monochromatic layers. Lastly, the collection portrayed fashion pieces with unclarity but unique and reinvigorated fashion for all sexes.
Yves Saint Laurent Summer/Spring’22
Eiffel Tower became the backdrop for YSL’s Summer/Spring’22 womenswear collection that was a blast of Parisian fashion from all decades, reinventing YSL aesthetic with newer silhouettes. Chunky heels were abundant and what stood out most for us was bright blue and red gloves, colour blocking classic suit skirts, reminding us of YSL’s legendary Le Smoking Suit.
In a world of oversized and baggy pants, YSL is re-introducing us to the forgotten skinny leggings and leotards in solid colours. Coming to the prints, the house claimed half of the fabrics to be birthed out of recycled ocean plastic but the prints we were not a fan of. Case in point: the white fabric with rose patterns gives the collection a fresh look but seemed way too familiar and overdone.
Weinsanto, known for their exuberant pieces and cabaret motifs fixed the theme black and shades of fuschia for their SS'22 collection at Paris Fashion Week. The models looked like distant relatives of the Mad Hatter not just owing to their enormous headgear but also their eclectic personalities. As per the label's rule of thumb, drama was at an all-time high and models who wore black nail paints on their huuuuuuuuge (no, we are not exaggerating) nails as they walked.
Weinsanto's idea of frivolousness depicted beautifully here with pretzel-shaped purses and crowns along with huge inverted bucket bags that gave models to sneak quick bites amidst the runway. As much as we melted with sheer pieces, high-thigh slit zipped black dresses along with shiny fabric leotards, we do not approve of the clogs-crocs mixture that disgraced the feet of the sassy models.